A continuation of stator arm demonstrations seen in Videos #9, 10, and 11, this video goes into further details and explanations regarding magnet interactions used to create rotational thrust and completes the section regarding use of a stationary stator.
19. May 2009 at 6:31 pm
You are correct that you must move the stator arm away from the rim in order to maintain continuous rotation.
You would find that should you calculate the work done to lift the stator arm away from the rim would equal the energy lost due to friction of the bearings and air resistance to the spokes. At low velocity, the work needed to keep it rotating is very small. Thus the work needed to move the stator arm would also be very small, and will not be provided (in any way) by the rotor.
19. May 2009 at 8:39 pm
Why are you teasing us? Stop touching the wheel and simply start it and let us see what it does. Obviously you have not seen the Roney Stator on YouTube. He also uses a bike wheel and you would learn a lot from his channel. Your stator is flawed do to the metal/magnetic nuts you use.
20. May 2009 at 12:18 am
Perfect for science kids Rick, in fact i think i might show a few kids this, flawless presentation my friend thanks a lot Rick. Keep up the good work M8!
sincerely
Ash
20. May 2009 at 1:04 am
Thanks, Ash. Glad to see you in here, and to know you are enjoying this. Your comments are always appreciated. Best regards to you.
20. May 2009 at 1:12 am
I am teaching, not teasing, so learn and be patient, please. Evidently, you haven’t learned anything yet because I use only stainless steel nuts, and stainless and brass screws for the stator mountings.
Again, Roney’s experiments are about magnetic shielding, and mine are not. I don’t use it, and don’t need it.
20. May 2009 at 1:16 am
Hi takacs,
I understand the viewpoint where you are coming from. It is possible, of course, that my small rotor magnets may not produce enough attraction and repulsion force to keep the stator moving, but that remains to be seen.
20. May 2009 at 1:24 am
If there is insufficient force, then I only need to use stronger rotor magnets to achieve continuous movement, so that’s no problem to me with my design. Further, I will not be lifting the stator in my build. I only described this method in case someone wants to pursue it. Instead, I will be moving the stator magnet horizontally, back and forth 1″ across the rim. There will be only 1″ of travel per 10″ of rim travel through each group.
20. May 2009 at 1:35 am
In between groups, the stator magnet will not need to move at all, so zero resistance there. Since all horizontal movement of the stator is achieved with relative ease, certainly you must see how the strong attraction and repulsion forces involved will be able to accomplish what is required. I will also be adding a heavy flywheel (3/4″ birch plywood ring) to the opposite side of the wheel to add a hefty flywheel effect that will provide forward inertia sufficient to counteract any drag effect.
20. May 2009 at 2:17 am
Incidentally, since you mentioned the bearings, this was a junked wheel – rusted, bent, and the bearings are wicked bad. You probably can’t hear it during the videos, but the bearings sound like they have sand in them as they rotate, and that’s no joke. I don’t mind, though, as the wheel was free and I figure that if I can get this one working then a new one will do ever that much better.
20. May 2009 at 2:29 am
I should aslo point out that, for anyone interested in the stator lifting method discussed in this video, that the strong repulsive force that causes the braking effect can be utilized to provide all, or nearly all of the lifting force that would be required, with no anti-rotational resistance from friction or drag.
20. May 2009 at 2:57 am
Stainless steel is still steel. Evidently, you haven’t learned anything yet because stainless steel nuts are magnetic because they have steel in them. Hence the name, stainless steel. The James Roney stator allows for torque, where as non-shielded stators do not. Mylows wonderful device is a great example. It works wonderfully, but there’s no torque. The Roney stator opens a new door of possibilities. Thank you for your efforts, nonetheless.
20. May 2009 at 3:01 am
All stainless steels with the exception of austenitic stainless steels are magnetic. Google it if you do not believe me. All austenitic grades have very low magnetic permeabilities and hence show almost no response to a magnet when in the annealed condition.
20. May 2009 at 9:44 am
Yes, of course stainless steel has steel in it, and some stainless steel is magnetic. Most ss fasteners, though, are made of 304 alloy, which is high in nickel content, and the nickel prevents the steel crystals from aligning in magnetic attraction. I can place any of my ss fasteners directly against the strong HD magnet, and there is no attraction whatever.
20. May 2009 at 9:58 am
I think that after watching video #13 you will understand why a shielded stator is not needed, and would only detract from my the potential torque and rpm that are possible in my MOSTAT (moving stator) methods. To put it simply, my MOSTAT methods use all encountered forces of attraction and repulsion to the utmost advantage. Shielding my stator magnet from any of these forces of advantage would produce losses, rather than gains. You may not understand this yet, but you will in time.
22. May 2009 at 7:39 am
When shopping for your fasteners, take a small magnet with you and test them to be certain they are non-magnetic. If shopping online, specify that you want non-magnetic fasteners. If you can’t find them in stainless, brass or nylon machine screws will do just fine.