This video shows the same “cat’s meow” magnet configuration demonstrated in video #15, but here I lower the stator arm, from the previous 1.75 inch height above the rotor magnets, to a 1 inch gap. As can be seen, this dramatically increases the attraction and repulsion effects. The rotor quickly accellerates, after a few seconds, to the point where accurate and visually coordinated timing is no longer possible. At that point I take a digital tachometer reading and call it a day. If anyone watching this cannot see the significance of this demonstration, or cannot understand how powerful this method really is, then you really should take the time to review all of the lessons and demonstrations of the previous videos. For those who do understand the yet untapped full potential of this method, I hope you are ready to join in advancing this project forward. Please e-mail me if you wish to join the effort, and I will send a free pdf file with complete step-by-step replication instructions to the first 50 responders who are serious about carrying this forward. Be sure to include your own e-mail address in your message. I will also add you to my Pipe Dream e-mail recipient list, and you will be guaranteed to receive the latest breaking news and test results, plus updates to the pdf file as they become available. Thank you for your continued interest, Rick
22. May 2009 at 5:32 am
Hey, I do wish you luck, but in every demonstration I’ve seen of this, and there are many, what you’re describing is moving the stator arm manually to propel the wheel past the sticky spot. This input of energy ultimately equates to the rotational force seen, regardless of all other factors. Anyway, good luck Rick I’ll be watching.
22. May 2009 at 5:43 am
Yes Asym, I know what you mean, but that’s not the case here. In my “cat’s meow” preferred arrangement., as demonstrated in videos 14 through 16, there is no “sticky point” or anti rotational repulsion to overcome, as the stator movement avoids these pitfalls.
22. May 2009 at 5:50 am
Rick, that’s what I’m saying. The stator movement requires energy input, in both directions, and you can’t extract it from the moving wheel or the magnets without creating stasis in every setup I’ve seen.
22. May 2009 at 6:13 pm
Thanks for remaining polite in your arguments, Asym. I appreciate that, and I also understand where your thoughts are coming from and why. Still, you haven’t answered my question of two posts earlier. If you agree to my flywheel analysis, then you must also agree that I can in fact extract the energy from the wheel which is needed to move the stator. I have only moved it manually for the demos, and soon will be moving it with my tracking system.
22. May 2009 at 6:23 pm
As I mentioned earlier on, I really don’t have enough time to engage in protracted arguments or debates, and it is difficult to change anyone’s mindset once it is firmly established. Therefore, I simply ask that everyone keep their minds open to the possibility, however slim, that the principles I am showing you may be brought together to provide a working magnetic motor. I concede that I may fail, but I would surely fail if I didn’t at least try.
22. May 2009 at 6:34 pm
To succeed, I must first believe that this can be done, and I certainly do believe that. Secondly, I must maintain a positive outlook even in the face of discouraging results. Remember that negative results can teach us just as much as positive ones, and we can then work on solutions that overcome such negative results. That is how I have proceeded, and you can see that my results are now definitely on the positive side.
22. May 2009 at 6:43 pm
Instead of thinking of reasons why you think this will not work, you can be more helpful by thinking about ways to enhance the methods I have demonstrated, and suggest these enhancements to me. If they are good ones, I will implement them and give you the credit you deserve. Those who have no positive thoughts to offer should either keep negative thoughts to themselves, and watch silently, or look elsewhere for another place to air their opinions. Let’s focus on moving this forwards, please
22. May 2009 at 7:06 pm
Rick looks promising, I’m working on something like this. if you can design a sort of cam to run off the hub so there is little drag you might get the right movement with from the stator.
Good luck
22. May 2009 at 7:58 pm
Rick, I disagree with your flywheel analysys. But, please don’t let this critic deter you from seeing your project through. I can only comment on what I have seen through my experiences. I wish you success.
22. May 2009 at 8:07 pm
Don’t worry, I won’t be deterred by any amount of criticism.
I suggest you study flywheel energy storage (FES) principles, which do work and have been utilized by several different methods ever since the wheel came into use. Thanks for your good wishes. – Rick
23. May 2009 at 12:09 am
Hi Vonwolf, and thanks for your comment. I’ll be trying out a monorail track system, as I mentioned in an earlier comment, but I’d love to see many people joining this project and trying out other methods such as you mention. There are many ways that the stator movement can be accomplished, and I have long since considered most all of the possibilities which are practical. I hope you continue your interest and that you join in this effort. Best regards, Rick
24. May 2009 at 4:34 am
Hello Rick, I wanted to congratulate you for the model built and to share this with clarity.
I wanted to ask, how much force it takes to move the stator? is plausible that the turning wheel can move automatically? thanks
24. May 2009 at 5:07 am
Hi destin, and thank you. The force required to move the stator is dependent upon the height of the stator magnet above the rotor magnets. As you lower the stator arm, more force is required, and visa versa. In this video the distance is 1″, and although the stator still moves fairly easy, it is probably 5 to 10 times the force required when set at 1.75″ as in video #15. I do feel that this wheel can be a self-runner, and that is what I am working towards.
24. May 2009 at 1:10 pm
You might want to look more at your bearings or something in the holding mechanism because when you bring the stator mags over the wheel, the wheel rises a bit. that might be slowing your revs a bit. Improving the resistance to lateral movements of your bike rim should net you some more revs and easier operation as well.
24. May 2009 at 4:06 pm
Please try to use 90 degrees bended iron bar plates as I used in my TOMI video.
It really helps to guide the magnetic flux away from the sticking points.
Good luck.
Regards, Stefan.
25. May 2009 at 11:31 am
Hi, jbig. Yes, as I’ve pointed out a few times, this is a junk wheel which was severely bent and rusted, and has wicked bad bearings. I have a spanking new replacement for it, but am holding off a bit. I figure that if I can make this one work fairly well then the new one will work all the better. I don’t mind the handicap for now. Best regards to you.
25. May 2009 at 11:41 am
Drevtoob, I went to reply to your post and must have hit the Remove link rather than the Reply one, as your message suddenly disappeared. Sorry about that. Could you post your question again, please. Thank you. – Rick
25. May 2009 at 11:47 am
Hi Stefan. I’m not sure what TOMI video you are referring to, since more than 12,000 show up in a search on that word. Anyways, sticky points really aren’t a problem in this build. The sticky points would normally be at the front of each rotor group, where attraction comes into play, but you can see that the groups are drawn in towards the stator and then accellerated, even from a standstill. There is accelleration at both ends of each group.
25. May 2009 at 1:18 pm
The Tomi Video in my own videos
over here.
Just go to my youtube account and there it is.
Regards, Stefan.
26. May 2009 at 2:30 am
Good job sir.
Looks like all you need is a spring to pull the stator inward and a cam on the wheel to push the stator away.
It will be interesting if you can overcome the mechanical losses.
26. May 2009 at 10:34 am
Thank you, Alien. I don’t plan to use a spring, because I want to keep drag to a bare minimum. I won’t exactly be using a cam either, although the monorail track which I am installing will have the same effect as a cam. It will slowly weave inward and outwards 1/2″ or so out beyond the perimeter of the wheel, if you can picture that.
26. May 2009 at 11:08 pm
Hey Rick, whats your thought about using magnet shielding?
fe watch?v=yOUXSDfBLWU
27. May 2009 at 12:14 am
Magnetic shielding has been used for decades, and it does have its place. That place is with a fixed stator design, which isn’t the case here. My build uses a moving stator, and requires no shielding. I don’t want to shield the attraction or repulsion forces – I want to fully utilize them to advantage, and a moving stator is the best way to accomplish this.
27. May 2009 at 12:22 am
I see it, Stefan. I don’t see where this would be of advantage in my preferred configuration as shown in this video, but it would help out with a fixed stator. I could test that for you, if that would be of help to what you are working on. Watch video #17, available later tonight, to see my flywheel connected, and e-mail me with details of how you would propose to setup for the test. Best regards, Rick
29. May 2009 at 12:41 pm
seems like either magnets or purely mechanical means could be used to move the stator